The groups were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. When the team noted the coordinate of 27° 57’45” N 86° 56’03” E was the real summit location. South col became the usual climbing route. The caravan route of Mt. Lhotse Expedition is the same as the route with Mt. Everest. All expedition team of Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse reach just below the South col on the Lhotse face. Setting up camp I, II, III at the same place. After considering the history and previous climbing experience, Everest Expeditions Nepal noted that Mt. Lhotse Expedition is too technical compared to Mt. Manaslu, Mt. Everest, and Mt. Makalu.
Though Nepal’s famous Khumbu region, the approached Lhotse route leads up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4750m). After half an hour scenic flight to Lukla, Which is known as the Khumbu gateway point. You will be trekking toward Namche Bazaar (3400m), Tengboche (3800m), Pheriche (4200m), Lobuche (4710m), Gorak Shep (5150m) to Everest/Lhotse; Base Camp (5200m). It typically takes 8-9 days to reach the Advance base camp from Kathmandu.
The Lhotse expedition is a severe logistical excursion with lots of food, supplies, and equipment hauled up along the Everest Base Camp trek by armies of porters and Sherpa guides carrying ropes, ladders, and equipment to high camps. Clients wait patiently in the base camp as the Sherpa set up miles of fixed lines and find their clients’ path. The Lhotse climbing expedition along the South col is calling the regular Lhotse climbing route.
Lhotse South Col Route Camps:
Once past the Khumbu icefall, the route is not that challenging technically and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger. The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with an obvious implication of large crevasses and dangerously unstable seracs, making navigation complicated and riddled in the severe threat of falling ice. The most dangerous part of the climb in Lhotse. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpas guides (Icefall enactor) set the route through the icefall, installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing.
These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu icefall conceivable, practical, and moderately protected, unusually early morning before the dawn when the ice structure is very much frozen. Khumbu icefall is difficult in the early evening because of its western viewpoint.
Base Camp: (5200m/17,060ft.)
Lhotse base camp lies on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level, where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh but beautiful and surrounded by Pumori, Lola, and Nuptse, and The Khumbu Icefall experiences warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC, it looks like a small village in the Himalayas.
Camp I: (5900m/19,357ft.)
Arriving at C1 is the most specialized piece of a southside climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs, and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period, we attempt to spend only two nights on camp I for acclimatization. Once you have proper acclimation, our plans call for us to move up and down directly from base II safely.
Camp II: (6400m/20,998ft.)
Camp II is in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the West edge. It is also too protected and shielded area with colossal perspectives on Lhotse. All organizations set up their primary climbing camp for the climbing time frame, with tents for singular climbers and kitchen and dining tents. Center two is the main acclimatization. The base three for acclimatization before climbing to the final summit attempt. The center that you will spend most time after base camp.
Camp III: (7100m/23,294ft.)
Climbing the Lhotse Face to Camp III is often tricky since almost all climbers feel the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep, and the ice is hard, but the routing fix with rope, and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to camp III but requires acclimatization before a summit bid. You will spend two nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.
Camp IV: (79000m/25,918ft.)
Welcome to the moon—a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse on the South. Camp IV is the last camp, and it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp IV: The Yellow Band, a layer of marble, phyllite, semi schist rock, and the Geneva Spur, an anvil-shaped rib of black stone. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.
Summit: (8516m/27, 940ft.)11-16 hours
The last section of the climb from camp III to camp IV takes 11-16 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face raises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80-degree bulge. The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good foot placement rhythm and pull themselves up the strings using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope, and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.
Facts of the Trip
First Ascent: May 18th, 1956 by a Swiss team composed of Ernst Reiss & Fritz LuchsingerDuration:60 days (typically) Days
Group Size:1-10 people per group.
Co-ordinates:27°57’45” N, 86°56’03” E
Location:Nepal/Tibet border, 30km west of Everest
Country:NepalAirport:Kathmandu (KTM)Departure From:Kathmandu (KTM)
Accommodation:Tea house during trek & Camping during climbing period
Meals:B/B plan in Kathmandu. B/L/D during the trekking and climbing periods
Transportation:Car, Jeep, Flight
Best season:Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Activity:Natural beauty of Sherpa CommunityCulture:Sherpa and Tamang
Mode of Travel:Tea House/CampingClimbing
Route:South ColHimalayan sights:Ama Dablam, Everest, Makalu
Itinerary Details of the Lhotse Expedition
03 April/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4,430ft).
04 April/Day 02:Preparation and briefings at Departments of Tourism, last minute shopping.
05 April/Day 03:Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8,694ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
06 April/Day 04:Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu villages (3440m/11,286ft) 6hrs. Lodge accommodation.
07 April/Day 05:Rest day for acclimatization.You will be hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12,487ft) 3hrs. Catch a glimpse of Everest.Explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with slide show program.
08 April/Day 06:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3850m/12,631ft) 5-6 hrs.Visit significant Buddhist monastery.Lodge accommodation.
09 April/Day 07:Trek from Tengboche to Dengboche (4350m/14,271ft) 4-5 hrs. Catch glimpses of Ama Dablam and Lhotse.Lodge accommodation.
10 April/Day 08:Acclimatization in Dingboche(4350M/14,271ft).Hiking up to Chukung-Re.
11 April/Day 09:Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m/16,463ft) 4-5hrs.Lodge accommodation.
12 April/Day 10:Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m/16,962ft) 3hrs.Lodge accommodation.
13 April/Day 11:Morning acclimatize to Kalapther (5554m) after breakfast Trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp (5200m/17060ft) 2hrs.
14 April-27 May/Day12-55: Climbing period (8516m/27,940ft).
28 May/Day 56:Preparation for return, trek from Everest base camp to Dingboche(4350m/14,271ft) 4hrs.Lodge accommodation.
29 May/Day 57:Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860m/12,631ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
30 May/Day 58:Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,286ft, 4hrs) Lodge accommodation.
31 June/Day 59:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9,317ft) 7hrs.Lodge accommodation.
01 June/Day 60:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350m/4,430ft) 35mins.Transfer to hotel.fgfgg
02 June/Day 61:Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu. Fair well-celebration dinner with culture program in the evening.
03 June/Day 62:Transfer to the airport for final departure.
In Full Board Service
Everest Expeditions Nepal offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service and high camp service. It executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, oxygen and prepare high altitude food for the client. Full board also includes assisting the client on the route. It ensures their safety and well being. We move at the clients preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the clients safety and well being being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps. It also provides oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen and Summit system mask regulators.
Full Board Service Cost (Includes)
During the ascent of Mount Lhotse, Everest Expeditions Nepal will provide a chef cook, cook assistant, helper, and base camp manager at the advanced base camp to take care of your food, drinks, and other necessary services your good and comfort.
Everest Expeditions Nepal allow up to 60kg of personal climbing equipment per person during the flight onboard and during trekking in Lhotse expedition carried by porter/ yak/ mules.
The offer cost includes Mount Lhotse south regular route climbing royalty and the Nepal Government’s climbing permit. (Permit issued by Department of Tourism)
As Mount Lhotse is located at Mount Everest National Park’s territory, Everest Expeditions Nepal provide you a permit for Mount Everest National Park.
The Trekkers’ Information Management Systems permit issued by the trekking agency association of Nepal is required to enter the area of Everest National Park, so Everest Expeditions Nepal provides you a TIMS permit too.
We provide first aid medical kits for the group and the staff, taking care of your climbing and health safety.
Everest Expeditions Nepal arrange a generator for back- up lighting power and charge electronic tools if solar panels are not enough for light and charge the battery.
Everest Expeditions Nepal arrange transportation, service of food, all needed expedition, content supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu and return to Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/ Yaks to base camp and return)
Everest Expeditions Nepal will try to make the base camp as convenient as possible. We will provide you a heater at the base camp for heating the dining room during cold temperatures (mostly required for evening and morning).
Everest Expeditions Nepal include Icefall charges by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, Summit rope cost charged by Expedition Operators Association, and Himalayan Rescue Association medical insurance charged in the package cost.
Full Board Service Cost (Excludes):
Suppose you want to take any packed food, snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, and carbonated soft drinks, any types of alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, and nutria-bars during the trek. In that case, you have to buy it yourself as a customer often requires these items during the trekking. There’s no guess on how much and will take by the client and its cost.
Expenses are incurred towards personal nature trekking, climbing equipment, laundry expenses, tips, landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and the internet service is not included in the package. You have to pay for it yourself when you use it.
Personal climbing equipment is also one of the significant factors for your safe and successful climbing. So you have to arrange all your personal climbing equipment brand and quality on your own.
Mountaineering is, in itself, a risky and adventurous activity that always takes place in remote areas. So, safety is the primary factor for us. Therefore, you have to arrange your travel insurance covering the cost of emergency rescue, medical treatment, medical tests, and hospitalization before you arrive for the trip to Nepal.
The package cost also offered above does not include your international flight ticket and Nepal’s tourist visa so that you have to pay for your international flight ticket and tourist visa by yourself.
Any extra expenses arising out of various/ unforeseen situations like natural disasters, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations costs are not included in the package cost.
Additional costs if needed extra workers, than what we have included in the package.